JD Wetherspoon’s return to Muswell Hill by Glynn Davis

JD Wetherspoon’s return to Muswell Hill by Glynn Davis

Article originally featured on Propel Info – available here.

Alongside a row of gleaming hand-pumps sit two glass domes placed on the end of the long pewter-topped bar covering a large tasty-looking carrot cake and pile of fruit scones. They are complemented by an enormous vase containing an arrangement of pampas grass and palms. The scene is reminiscent of images in the bible of Victorian pub architecture – Mark Girouard’s authoritative book ‘Victorian Pubs’ – where the boozer is shown in all its glory from the days when it really was the centre of many people’s lives.

What I describe is not a tarted-up Victorian pub at all, but is a thoroughly modern affair that has just opened in north London’s Muswell Hill. The Mossy Well is the latest JD Wetherspoon to open its doors, a return to the area of London where the company was founded in 1979. Having made a visit during its opening week it struck me that the company just might be running the modern incarnation of the Victorian pub. This unit typifies the type of pub the company now operates. Although largely one open space the reality is that The Mossy Well like its newer sister pubs has many different areas, which are sufficiently differentiated as to provide a natural habitat for all types of pub-goer. Just like their glorious Victorian predecessors they increasingly cater for all strata of society.

The front-end of the building and bar areas are for those just on the sauce, whereas the sofa-type seating located further into the space accommodates the coffee-and-cake crowd and couples. Deeper into the bowels of the pub and upstairs on the mezzanine it is diners and families that feel most at home. The outside space out front and in the back garden serves the smokers and groups of youngsters looking for a more raucous night out. Such is the size of the group’s new pubs they arguably have the ability to be all things to all people. It is all a far cry from the early days when JD Wetherspoon founder Tim Martin opened his first just around the corner from The Mossy Well.

It was a small unit and typified the pubs that he opened in those first few years. They were wet-led boozers catering for the drinker – predominantly male. Fast forward to today and what he has brought to Muswell Hill this time around is a fully-formed operation that represents a quantum leap forward. It runs to 907 sq m and the location – being an expensive, family-oriented (it has good schools) part of town – highlights how Wetherspoon is now able to attract all demographics. Such a gargantuan unit would simply not work without pressing the right buttons for many groupings.

On my visit all society was in evidence at The Mossy Well – from babies in prams to doting and dotty grandparents. And all levels of affluence. Along with the buildings’ infrastructure, what also makes its broad appeal possible is the fact the company has successfully managed to pull off that magical balance of being able to deliver both a high quality product and a low price-point. The drinks list now runs the full gamut – from the bog-standard £2.49 lagers and bitters to a constantly revolving cask offering. This month happens to be its International beer festival when an array of one-off brews are available from UK brewers and a batch of interesting collaborative beers from domestic brewers teaming up with top international producers.

The range runs through to some classy craft beers including Crafty Dan 13 Guns American IPA and Sixpoint Bengali in cans alongside bottles of Erdinger, Duvel and Devil’s Backbone IPA. The latter can be had with a foot-long hot dog and chips for a grand total of £5.49. By my reckonings such a brew would be £4.50 on its own in many other London boozers. Over the years the food menu has been developed into a pretty impressive affair. I recall judging a major pub food awards competition around 12 years ago and Wetherspoon’s won in the Multiple Operator category when in reality it was largely focused on simple curries, steak nights and a bit of experimentation with the likes of crispy duck wraps.

What it presents today is, again, a quantum leap forward. From Superfood pasta (including rocket & kale pesto, sugar snap peas and soya beans) to BBQ pulled pork Burritos, and Shanghai noodles to Eggs Benedict at breakfast time. This is a world away from JDW circa 1979. Apart from the price that is because none of these dishes comes in at much more than £5. It is a menu that is as varied as it is lowly priced. When combined with its multi-faceted pubs – that are predominantly carved out of interesting old buildings such as cinemas and banks (The Mossy Well was an Express Dairy building and former tram-shed), which gives them some character, then Wetherspoon’s offers a combination that is increasingly tough to compete against. The Victorian ideal of a pub is not dead, long live the new incarnation of the Victorian pub.

Glynn Davis is leading commentator on retail trends

This article was originally featured on Propel Info and is available here for reference.